Ski Alignment... Without A Chiropractor Visit

Dix · Jan 03, 2009, 07:53 PM

I think one of the more repeated PMs I get over on DooTalk is on looking for an "easy" way to check/set ski alignment... well, I finally took some pics of the process.

I used to do it the way everyone else does too... run a tape measure under the skis... and then crawl on your belly and/or stand on your head trying to read it... well... I'm just too d*mn old for that crap anymore... my neck hurts thinking about it.

Some lay 2x4s along the sides of the track up between the skis... you still have to measure from under the ski... or on top of it (which can be iffy)... and how many 2x4s are actually straight? (eyeball down the length of one sometime).

There IS an easier way... and a sure-fire way to boot... & I'm sure I'm not the 1st person to come up with this, but.... think NASCAR... think SURFACE PLATE!!!!

OK... so maybe a 6-figure chassis plate isn't in the budget... but could you spend 6 bucks on one?

The perfect alignment tool is a cheap piece of 1/2 sheathing/plywood right from your local LOWE'S/HD/lumberyard.... it's the perfect size for the job... & has two perfectly parallel sides... it's... well... perfect.

Lay it out on your shop/garage floor... using a simple tape measure center your track on it at the rear... I just measure from the edge of the track to the edge of the plywood and move the rear end until the measurement is the same on both sides. (Make sure track alignment is good 1st).

Center your bars and then do the same for the skis as you did with the track measuring at the center of the ski carbide, directly below the spindle bolt... don't worry if the skis aren't oriented right... that's what we're going to fix... we just need to be sure that the sled is square on the plywood for now... so you measure AT THE SPINDLE BOLT. (don't forget to have a VERY LIGHT bungee between the ski loops to take any "slop" out of the steering linkages)

Now go back and recheck the rear... then recheck the front again... the old measure twice cut once thing at work... once you can measure both ends and not have to move the sled and/or recenter the bars you're good to start adjusting.

For us DOO drivers we're going to be shooting for either 1/8" total toe-out for a REV or ZX w/Precision skis... or ZERO-toe for Pilots... the pics happen to be of the Kid's ZX & Precisions, so I'm going for 1/8" out.

First I measure at the rear of the carbide to the edge of the plywood...

Then at the front of the carbide...

Now, I want 1/8" TOTAL toe-out... so that means 1/16" toe-out for each ski ( 1/16 + 1/16 = 1/8 )... so I'll adjust the tie-rod until the measurement at the front of the carbide is 1/16" less than at the rear of the carbide... recheck your bars for center after any adjustment.

Once you have one side... jump over and do the other... recheck the 1st side... when you can measure both sides & have them both be right without moving anything... lock it down & you're done.

Best part about this method is that it's pretty idiot-proof (it needs to be so I can do it

) so long as you make sure you check the bars for being straight after any adjustment... how many times have you used that "other" method... got it all done... and then found your bars to be slightly "off" when your sled is going straight... can't happen doing it this way.

That's all there is to it... quick, easy, and the best part is no standing on your head, fancy gymnastics, or playing Twister with your sled (the sled will always win) to get it done... your chiropractor will hate it.

Offshore24 · Jan 04, 2009, 07:03 PM

Let me ask you this: I've never figured out why you need to measure off the track for a straight line. first off, the track isn't something that can be aligned with anywhere near the precision you're measureing the skis. You eyeball the track alignment thru the windows. Second, if you square the handlebars off a common point on each side of the sled, why can't you align the skis off that setting. I have squared the handlebars and aligned the skis so they point straight wrt the handlebars being square. why would that not work?

Dix · Jan 05, 2009, 07:03 AM

Sure... that way will work as well... I came up with this method because it's easy (minimal monkeying & gymnastics), and reliable... set it once & forget it... comes out perfect every time.

I measure from the edge of the hyfax to the edge of the track (or a driver tooth) when aligning a track... adjust axle if needed... start the sled & spin the track some, & recheck.... I'm not standing on my head to look through a track window... too old for that crap.

BTW... when the local garage sets the toe on the front end of your truck... they shoot a laser beam from the rear axle to the front spindles... that beam is squared off the rear axle....

... setting the toe on a race car?... run a string from the rear edge of the rear wheel to the front edge of the front wheel & grab a tape measure. (if your rear is set up "square")

Everybody pretty much in the entire motorsports & automotive world squares off the rear axle.

Offshore24 · Jan 05, 2009, 07:21 AM

Originally Posted by Dix

Sure... that way will work as well... I came up with this method because it's easy (minimal monkeying & gymnastics), and reliable... set it once & forget it... comes out perfect every time.

I measure from the edge of the hyfax to the edge of the track (or a driver tooth) when aligning a track... adjust axle if needed... start the sled & spin the track some, & recheck.... I'm not standing on my head to look through a track window... too old for that crap.

Got it. I didn't think of that. I don't stand on my head, I lay on my belly in the sand and slop on the floor of the garage (actually use cardboard).